Indonesia Update

We haven't seen any rain since we left Cairns 3 months ago! The weather now 
feels  warmer as we move west,but luckily it still cools down after sunset  . 
After arriving in Lembata  adjacent  to the smoldering volcano Ili Api we 
arranged for a 4WD car to take us along with Kilkea  to a traditional whaling 
village called Lamalera on the south side of the island .The journey was on a 
winding  road /track that was a combination of mud,stone,a sprinkling of asphalt 
and giant potholes! Travelling up ,down and around 3 mountain ranges ,3 1/2 hrs 
for 47 km,passing coffee, cacao,banana and cashew plantations.
They are exempt from the international ban on whaling ,so  traditionally they 
hunt their prey  in small 10 m wooden  boats with a sail made from palm 
leaves,they use bamboo harpoons catching sperm whales, pilot whales , dolphins 
,sharks and manta rays , a maximum of 25 per year. So far they have only caught 
2 whales this year one being 10 days prior to our arrival. After the ban on 
fishing on Callisto you can imagine my feelings toward this visit. I was 
envisioning a smell emanating that would not allow me to explore plus a deep 
sadness ,but somehow I must admit there really was no off putting smell and with 
learning the way these brave men hunt, and how they use every scrap of the 
animal it really was no more  abhorrent than looking in the local butchers at a 
sheep or a cow! We had some more adventure on the journey back with brakes that 
were metal on metal and a wheel almost fell off, we hadnt realised we needed to 
count the lug nuts on the wheels before hiring it .2! Somehow the driver jerry 
rigged it and we made it back! Hopefully it wont be long before I am able to 
post the photos. 
Our crew Tracey who sailed with us from Darwin left us in Lembata to find her 
way back to the US.We had a lot of fun with her aboard.
The next stopover was a beautiful sandbar called Adunara. Peaceful and 
relaxing,clear turquoise waters with live corals, fish and mantas.
Many of these coastal villages are Muslim with a mosque and loud speakers  
broadcasting at all times of the day and night,especially this last month with 
Ramadam,(it is now over.)
The last village we visited was called Mausambi,on the island of Flores with 96 
families ,Christian, Muslim and animist religions.
This was not an official stopover for sail Indonesia ,but Vincent who welcomed 
us on our arrival set it up as though it was. We were taken inland to a 
traditional village by foot (30 mins walk ) to meet the chief and be welcomed 
with dancing and food. I was lucky enough to be presented with a local Ikat 
(girls need to be able to weave these fine ikats in order to be eligible for 
marriage)shawl from the chiefs wife.Next day  we were taken to their community 
garden to pick our own vegetables ,afterwards Vincent gave me a ride on his 
motorcycle back to the traditional village ,so that I could in return  give a 
present to the chiefs wife. I found a heavy newish frying pan, a silk head scarf 
and some perfume and nail polish,she seemed pleased. The chief welcomed me to 
sit with him and served fresh cocoanut water and some hot tea.
Next day was the Captains 60th,we along with 18 other yachties from the 
anchorage left in 2 bemo trucks( 2 benches ,no padding ,facing each other In an 
open sided truck). We set off at 4 am to see the 3 different craters of 
Kelimutu. This trip was 2 1/2 hours up a winding ,but mostly paved road.We 
needed to be there in the early morning as it is swamped with clouds by 10am. 
The temperature was cooler and very pleasant for walking.Along the way were 
tiered rice paddies,coffee and banana plantations,clove and mandarin trees,plus 
many vegetables. Two of the three different colored volcanic lakes can change  
color and they are considered sacred , it is believed that the souls of the dead 
go here,the souls of the wicked in the black pool,of the young in the green pool 
and the rest in the pool which can change from blue to red ,orange over a period 
of years!.
Later that day all the anchorage were invited for sundowners,nibbles and 
birthday cake aboard Callisto.A day to remember.
We have been travelling along the northern coast of Flores heading west along 
with Kilkea ,it is very pleasant doing day hops of 20-40 nm each day.Both of us 
being Amels we go along at roughly the same speed, sometimes close enough that 
we can pass the "grey poupon"!  

Happy 60th birthday Captain!!!

On this momentous occasion I thought it would be nice to have a look back over the last 6 decades.....

Aged 10

Aged 20

Aged 30

Aged 40

Aged 50

Same hairdo as when he was 20!

 

As always, the Captain is in great company as today he is celebrating a 60th year celebration along with the Queen, Mr 'T', Liam Neeson, Isabella Rosellini, Robin Williams, David Hasselhoff and Vladamir Putin to name but a few.

We will be somewhere in Indonesia (most likely without the internet) for this momentous day, but I have no doubt that we will be continuing the celebrations all year, first in England in October/ November and then in the US November through to mid-January before our return to Malaysia. 

As you can see in the following photographs, there was another milestone to his life's chapter, the Captain became a grandpa this year.

In fact he has countless accomplishments he can look back over and be proud of, including five wonderful children and an Admiral who has been alongside him for 40 years.

 

A Proud Dad at Jessica's wedding

Grandparents!

Grandpa and Sydney napping together

 

In his Doctor days he devotedly spent countless hours (35 years) with his

patients .You can see how he is enjoying his retirement  to its fullest, developing many new skills, in fact he is so busy enjoying life that he doesn't know when he had the time to work!

Coconut Shucker

Explorer

Goat Chatting

Guitar Player

Handyman

Lunchtime activities

Prawn Peeler

Super hero

Yacht mechanic

What can I say...this is what retirement does for you!

19 August 2012

Callisto is now on the tiny island of Besar off the coast of Flores.  In a day or two they will go onto Maumere which should have good internet and there will be more updates!

Lewoleba, Lembata, Indonesia

Today finds Callisto in an anchorage between two five thousand foot volcanoes on the island of Lembata. We arrived yesterday after our visit in Alor and then a small town called Balleurin on the island to the west. Our visit ther in the company of Killkea and Pakia Mist was most enjoyable. We went ashore and were welcomed by hundreds of kids who followed us about for the entire morning.
The weather has been fine and we look forward to visiting a whaling village on this island in a day or two. Alas, no photos yet until we find some better Internet, hopefully at our next stop

Indonesia so far.....

  After a good sail from Oz we approached Kupang in the early morning,the smokey smell and twinkling lights welcomed us, but it was still dark,and with no navigational lights or markers we were on the lookout ,especially for small fishing boats as we went up the channel,some have lights and some don't ! At first light we saw  about 12 masts already in the anchorage .As the day progressed another 50 yachts arrived.We raised our 'Q' flag and awaited the local customs officers who randomly went to whichever yacht took their fancy! No kind of order. Paperwork is King in Indonesia.We had made multiple photocopies from a list of different paperwork that the rally had advised, the officers were very polite ,we filled out more forms, they  took a look below decks and gave us  clearance to go ashore to start the real paperwork! I must say the rally had organized all 5 different government departments of officials in one building which was extremely convenient and actually made the process of checking in run smoothly. The local bar was next door with free wifi, and cheap cold beer,the local telecommunications people were there with sim cards ,etc etc this bar became the local hangout for all events.our captain was unable to get the answers he needed for our wifi needs so a local guy kindly took him 10 km on the back of his skooter  to the local head office to sort things out, an exciting  ride in the chaotic traffic ,a town with few road signs, and only one traffic light that he could see!( 350,000 population) The local buses are small vans called bemos, with no headroom ( fine for little people like myself) ,that are highly decorated, play loud music ,have 2 benches on each side and pile as many people in as possible.The side door is always open with a young boy (13yrs or so) who stands ready to jump out to stop traffic when they make a turn etc( remember no traffic lights) as you will see from the photos we did a tour seeing the highlights of kupang using a bemo,this included the local wild monkeys,the traditional musical instrument ,and hat maker and,a look around the local museum that was crumbling ,as is most of the colonial dutch and portuguese architecture here. The majority of people are very ,very poor in this region ,and life is lived on the streets.A group of us went to visit the local orphanage,which presently houses 70 + children,the sail Indonesia rally organizes our donations to go to a scholarship fund for some of their brightest students to attend university. We also donated clothing ,other supplies etc .They grow most of their food and raise chickens,pigs, and goats ,the surplus is taken to market to help earn money for the running of the orphanage.it was amazing to see how happy the children seemed ,caring for each other just like a very large extended family.I will post an address if anyone would like to send a red cross parcel ( clothing, shoes, toothbrushes,band aids etc. Next day we set sail for Alor, stopping overnight 10 miles off the east Timor border. The captain mentioned the strange tides and currents we encountered. We have been welcomed here and entertained.Unfortunately there is smoke from the Volcano nearby and trash burning, so breathing  when the breeze has dropped is irritating. We were graciously shown around the traditional village of Talapaka  including inside their houses.There are 2 floors within the thatched roof that can be reached by a precarious bamboo ladder, the cooking area and the corn storage,see photos. The regency governor laid on a dinner for us and honored some of the yachties by dressing them up in ceremonial clothing! We hope to set off again tomorrow  ,the weather here is the dry season, so no rain, hot sun in the day (30 C in the day, 20 C at night).

Kalabari, Alor, Indonesia

We arrived in Alor last night are a difficult passage from Kupang. We left the day before yesterday and had a nice day sail for about 45 miles and anchored in a cove on the north side of Timor. There was 80 miles to cover to the anchorage at Alor so we left at 0400 H and thought we could cover the distance in daylight. This was not to be due to adverse currents and light wind. There was huge current of 5 kts plus between Alor and the islands to the west and even with a powerful motor we were making less than a knot over ground. Fortunaly the current was much less close to shore but going 100 meters off the coast in the pitch black was exciting. Also, dodging fish traps and pearl farms added to the fun. We made it fine and we are about the sixth boat here and all the rest will arrive today and tomorrow. Photos of Kupang soon if we can find good internet.

Kupang,West Timor, Indonesia

Well, we certainly are not in Oz any more! This place is much more like Mexico but there are no Mariachis and they don't speak Spanish. We are back in the land of the 40 oz.  beers at $2.50 each, this is an improvement.