Friday, April 26, 2013

Recap sailing season in Malaysia and Thailand



Now that this sailing season is over,and we are planning our next  one,I cant believe we will mark our 4 years living on a boat at sea this coming October!Some of you may remember we were on a 5 year around the world schedule ,well best laid plans etc. the world is just too big,and we sail at bicycle speed,so if  we want to explore and experience some of these   fascinating  cultures ,it will just take time......So we aren't setting an actual date anymore. We will keep going west until we have completed the circle.
We are now back in the marina on Rebak island resort this is a short ferry ride from Langawi .What is extremely nice here is that we can use all of the hotel facilities ( included in our marina fees) ,so this afternoon we will go over to the pool, towels provided and relax in the shade ,overlooking the sea after a hard morning of boat chores! 
We are preparing to leave Callisto for 4-5 months whilst we pursue land travelling in Vietnam, London ,San Diego and Sun valley .For those who don't own boats this entails hours of cleaning inside and out ,every surface must be washed down using vinegar  and/or bleach.
Laundering all curtains, upholstery , indoor and outdoor cushions,bedding etc,etc.
We are leaving her in hot ,humid conditions and things need to be spotless.We even scrubbed the chain plus the chain locker  with bleach,no easy task unloading   110   Meters of chain on to the dock then back into the boat.Scrubbed the sail locker and repacked all the sails neatly in their bags. In fact all the lockers inside and out!!
After washing ,there is waxing! A never ending saga in these harsh sun and saltwater conditions.So when we are asked what do we do with ourselves all day,these  are examples.
We spent 7 weeks in Thailand, taking about 5 days of day sails each way from Malaysia.There are so many islands to stop at along the way making this a true sailors paradise.Next season when we return to Thailand we already have a few favorites we would like to spend some more time on plus new islands we haven't yet explored.
We will also do some land based tours in Thailand and nearby.One of the islands on the way up toward Phuket is called
Koh Lanta  this is an island that has a charm about it with  backpacker plus some upscale resorts ,but it still has a feel of locals living  and working there ,not just servicing the tourists (no airport so that you have to come by ferry from Langawi or Phuket , )probably what Phuket was like 15 -20 years ago before it became so commercialized.We spent a couple of weeks in 
The outer islands in the  andaman sea ,the surin and similan chains ,thay had the clearest water we have seen since the pacific,the coral unfortunately was mostly dead with some recovery in places, but still plenty of colourful fish .We were still able to find many remote ,uninhabited ( by humans) beaches and islands.We have become very spoiled by the islands in the pacific ,especially with the clarity of the water and the coral, we also do not like to share the waters or beaches with throngs of tourists anymore.
The southern and middle Malaysian coastline is rather flat and boring in comparison with the northern Malaysian and Thai coastlines which have a lot more height and dramatic landforms. 
These are both countries where I have enjoyed the sailing,as the seas are for the most part flat ,so I have only taken medication for the dreaded mal de mer  twice in the last 3 months, a record.Also all the trips can be done by day ,due to short distances ,shallow bays and  anchorages and the fact that it is not safe at night with small unlit fishing vessels leaving unmarked nets and floats randomly .No overnight passages are perfect as far as I am concerned.
Thai food is delicious ,the captain is now a  connoisseur of Tom Yam goong ,a hot and spicy sour shrimp soup and various green, red and yellow curries, not forgetting  singha  beer.My favorite Is Som tum, a spicy green papaya and /or green mango salad.We have found fresh markets with abundant choices of vegetables everywhere making provisioning very easy.
 Langawi,here in Malaysia is a duty free spot ,so it's good to have boat parts shipped here also alcohol is very cheap for example a liter of  Bombay gin is around 8 dollars,so this is the place to replenish the stocks before leaving   .
We have found the Thai and Malaysian people very friendly and helpful with lots of smiles.
 We have a de-  salinator ( water maker )on board so we haven't filled our tanks with dock water since Australia ,as the marina water in this part of the world can be dodgy, but this can be a challenge when in a marina if our supplies run low and we are living on the boat doing everyday activities,showering,toilet flushing,washing up, drinking etc this obviously depletes our supply.
So we have a  newly devised plan aboard Callisto ,we run the hose with shore water through the port (window)into the head (bathroom for non yachties)now we have unlimited washing water,with great pressure no more navy showers :) the water is also warm as the ambient temperature here in Rebak is hot, We are now bypassing our tanks. We have a bucket of water also in the head with a jug, for flushing ,an improvised Indonesian toilet,for those of you who have been there!
Another of my useful tips! I have found that bright sunlight takes away all the reddish ( tomato or curry based foods) stains from my storage Tupperware :)
A very useful buy this year was a solar charger  with multiple adaptors,so we can charge iPads ,phones etc wherever we are.
We have increased our solar garden lights also ,so at night we can easily spot where we are in the anchorage and as they are light sensitive we never have to remember to turn them on.
Again the iPads have proved to be our most useful gadgets as we travel by boat or on land,the built in GPS works navionics , a  navigation  program.Google maps(previously downloaded)when we are in a car and can't read the language on the sign posts!,a planets app that allows us to identify any star or planet above or below the horizon.
It is our communication using email,voice,video, texting and mailing of cards to land addresses (no more need of a stamp or a post office) we use Skype, magic jack,viber,text+, google plus ,Facebook,postcards on the run , and an app called cards .Anything needed to be researched ,read ,booked and or ordered via the Internet .
It is our camera , (and photo album) when we don't want to carry my monster super camera around.
All our reading material is in iBooks or kindle.
We play our games at sea for example scrabble , monopoly, trivial pursuit, so no pieces to blow away or fall down if we heel.
When sailing the captain and I are in heated tournaments of scrabble, I believe I am still a tad ahead of him.
It also stores and plays our music, all our todo lists etc etc  I could continue ...
We are extending our time in south east Asia another year as we have enjoyed it so much,so sailing off to South Africa is likely to be in August 2014.
On Sunday we are flying to Saigon and moving north as far as Sapa  near the Chinese border,  this will be an  18 day tour of Vietnam , using planes and trains for the most part.There should be plenty of photos and info to follow.

Monday, April 22, 2013

Rebak Marina, Langkawi, Malaysia

We did finally leave Koh Lanta a day after we expected to and there was no wind at all to we motored 60 miles south to Koh Lipe and took a mooring off the beach. This group of islands was very pleasant with very clear water and a laid back atmosphere. We went ashore and had a pleasant dinner on the beach.. The season is coming to a close and there were very few tourists left. The next day we walked all around the island and in the evening dined on giant prawns grilled on the beach..
We arrived in Rebak on Saturday afternoon after a calm ride from Loh Lipe. We left at sunrise and motored to Telaga harbor and cleared into Malaysia and took on some fuel. Telaga was a nice place and we will probably come back later in the year but it was so hot we went over to Rebak Island to score some A/C in the marina. Lots of old pals here and the resort is pretty good too
The past two days have been madly busy with clean up and getting ready to leave.
Sunrise, leaving Thailand


The other Thai Navy. The ubiquitous longtails

one of the many beach side eateries on Koh Lipe

Main drag Koh Lipe

Telaga Harbour, Langkawi. Nice Marina good place to clear in



.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Stuck on Ko Lanta

We have been slowly wending our way back to Langkawi and we are currently on Ko  Lanta about 50 miles south of Phuket. We stopped overnight at Phi Phi Don but the boat traffic there was so bad we decided to leave the following morning and not bother to go ashore.
We went south for about 25 miles to Koh Lanta and anchored up on the west side and had a very nice lunch at one of the small villages there.and the Admiral had a Thai massage and a pedicure.
The evening was very calm but a squall blew through with winds to 30 knots and driving rain at about 0200H  .This made the bay we were anchored in very uncomfortable so at dawn we went around to the west side of Ko Lanta where there is much more protection and had another very nice lunch ashore in Old Town Lanta.
Ko Lanta is what Phuket must have been like 30 years ago. It is much quieter with small resorts and hotels and beautiful secluded beaches.
Yesterday, we rented motor scooters and drove around the island. You can easily see all of it in a day and the high point was the national park in the south with excellent views. Motor scooter rental was $5 and another $4 for gas!
We were going to go 60 miles south  today to get to Ko Lipe but the predicted 15-20 kts became 25-30 kts.overnight with lots of rain showers so we decided to wait 24 hours and go tomorrow when this system has blown through. The monsoon season has definitely arrived.
Some Photos


view of the bay east of Ko Lanta

National Park

The lighthouse on the south of Lanta

Me and David at the base of the lighthouse

Old Town Lanta. Very traditional and few tourists.

View at the Park

Street vendor Old Town

Lunch with the Kilkea's 
Easy Riders before the motor scooter tour. Very sore bottoms at the end

Friday, April 12, 2013

Leaving Thailand

The seasons are changing and we had some heavy rain yesterday. Tomorrow is the Thai new year festival of Songkran which is due to last for a few days. It celebrates the onset of the rainy season and the tradition is to    wet passers by with water guns and the like.
We did our customs and immigration   clear out today and our new canvas awning and dodger and bimini have been delivered and we will leave tomorrow for Langkawi in Malaysia, taking a few days to visit some of the islands between Phuket and Malaysia.
some views of the new awning. Very expensive but I think it will be worthwhile  






The Admiral washing the Buddha. A Songkran tradition

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Back at Yacht Haven Marina, Phuket, Thailand

We got back to Yacht Haven Marina yesterday after our mini cruise in Phrang Na Bay. On Tuesday, we had a rendezvous at Koh Phak Bei with an old high-school friend of mine who is the owner of the megayacht Twizzle.
We had lunch aboard and I got the boy's tour and the Admiral got the girl's tour. The yacht was immaculate and spectacular and four hours passed very quickly indeed and we then got back aboard our comparatively tiny boat and spent the night back at Paradise Resort.
We await our new awning today and will do some boat chores. Benny leaves for Bankok early tomorrow and if our awning looks OK we will probably do our clear-out procedures on Friday and leave for Langkawi on the week end.
Here are some more photos.

sunset on rocks in Phrang Na Bay

"James Bond Island" where The Man with the Golden Gun was made.. Overrun with hordes of tourists

Leaving the national park at Phrang Na


We found a tin shack on the beach on Koh Yang. It was derelict except  for a new looking orange , embroidered party  dress. And cousin Benny

Lung fish. Koh Yang

The Admiral looking for shells on the beach in Koh Yang

Rock formations in Phrang Na Bay




"Twizzle" 168 feet of magnificence 

Monday, April 8, 2013

Paradise Resort, Koh Yao Noi, Thailand


We are now anchored up off the Paradise Resort on the small island of Koh Yao Noi.and very pleasant it is too. The weather has been very hot but there has been some breeze so we have not been too uncomfortable. Cousin Benny arrived last Friday and we took on some fuel and left Yachthaven in a brisk 18 to 20 kt. westerly breeze that took us up into Phrang Na bay very rapidly under sail. We anchored up for the afternoon at Koh Phanak and then dragged a bit in the soft mud and gusty wind so we decided to proceed another few miles north to Koh Yang and the so called James Bond Island. When we got there it was still blowing hard and we tucked ourselves in between koh Yang and another unnamed rock out of the wind and current..
The scenery with all the sand stone rocks of various shapes and sizes protruding for 400 feet into the air was quite spectacular.
We took the dinghy over to "James Bond Island" where the movie Man with the Golden Gun was made. The place was overrun with longtail boats and tourists and I'm not sure why. This island itself was not particularly impressive so we went ashore on Koh Yang and walked about on the beach where there was nobody.
Next day we came over here and spent the day ashore at the resort. They had a little cut in the reef and a jetty so it was easy to get ashore and they seemed to welcome yachties so we had a very nice lunch and spent the afternoon in the pool and on the beach. They even brought us complimentary fresh fruit and cocktails at 5 o'clock so we had dinner there as well!
The saga of my defective AIS continues. Furuno USA have now got involved but I don't think I will get it back in a serviceable condition while we are still in Thailand.
We will spend another day or two out in the bay and then back to Yachthaven to drop Benny off and to see if our new Bimini and awning are finished.
Next week is Songran, the Thai New Year so we will get to see what that is all about.

The navy Wives Club. We enjoyed it so much we went back there a second time by car. The Jungle curry was wild as advertized

Paradise Resort. It was too



our new cockpit table. This is a very welcome addition and was very nicely made

snacks at the Paradise Resort

The captain taking a snooze at the Paradise Resort
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