Indonesia Update

We haven't seen any rain since we left Cairns 3 months ago! The weather now 
feels  warmer as we move west,but luckily it still cools down after sunset  . 
After arriving in Lembata  adjacent  to the smoldering volcano Ili Api we 
arranged for a 4WD car to take us along with Kilkea  to a traditional whaling 
village called Lamalera on the south side of the island .The journey was on a 
winding  road /track that was a combination of mud,stone,a sprinkling of asphalt 
and giant potholes! Travelling up ,down and around 3 mountain ranges ,3 1/2 hrs 
for 47 km,passing coffee, cacao,banana and cashew plantations.
They are exempt from the international ban on whaling ,so  traditionally they 
hunt their prey  in small 10 m wooden  boats with a sail made from palm 
leaves,they use bamboo harpoons catching sperm whales, pilot whales , dolphins 
,sharks and manta rays , a maximum of 25 per year. So far they have only caught 
2 whales this year one being 10 days prior to our arrival. After the ban on 
fishing on Callisto you can imagine my feelings toward this visit. I was 
envisioning a smell emanating that would not allow me to explore plus a deep 
sadness ,but somehow I must admit there really was no off putting smell and with 
learning the way these brave men hunt, and how they use every scrap of the 
animal it really was no more  abhorrent than looking in the local butchers at a 
sheep or a cow! We had some more adventure on the journey back with brakes that 
were metal on metal and a wheel almost fell off, we hadnt realised we needed to 
count the lug nuts on the wheels before hiring it .2! Somehow the driver jerry 
rigged it and we made it back! Hopefully it wont be long before I am able to 
post the photos. 
Our crew Tracey who sailed with us from Darwin left us in Lembata to find her 
way back to the US.We had a lot of fun with her aboard.
The next stopover was a beautiful sandbar called Adunara. Peaceful and 
relaxing,clear turquoise waters with live corals, fish and mantas.
Many of these coastal villages are Muslim with a mosque and loud speakers  
broadcasting at all times of the day and night,especially this last month with 
Ramadam,(it is now over.)
The last village we visited was called Mausambi,on the island of Flores with 96 
families ,Christian, Muslim and animist religions.
This was not an official stopover for sail Indonesia ,but Vincent who welcomed 
us on our arrival set it up as though it was. We were taken inland to a 
traditional village by foot (30 mins walk ) to meet the chief and be welcomed 
with dancing and food. I was lucky enough to be presented with a local Ikat 
(girls need to be able to weave these fine ikats in order to be eligible for 
marriage)shawl from the chiefs wife.Next day  we were taken to their community 
garden to pick our own vegetables ,afterwards Vincent gave me a ride on his 
motorcycle back to the traditional village ,so that I could in return  give a 
present to the chiefs wife. I found a heavy newish frying pan, a silk head scarf 
and some perfume and nail polish,she seemed pleased. The chief welcomed me to 
sit with him and served fresh cocoanut water and some hot tea.
Next day was the Captains 60th,we along with 18 other yachties from the 
anchorage left in 2 bemo trucks( 2 benches ,no padding ,facing each other In an 
open sided truck). We set off at 4 am to see the 3 different craters of 
Kelimutu. This trip was 2 1/2 hours up a winding ,but mostly paved road.We 
needed to be there in the early morning as it is swamped with clouds by 10am. 
The temperature was cooler and very pleasant for walking.Along the way were 
tiered rice paddies,coffee and banana plantations,clove and mandarin trees,plus 
many vegetables. Two of the three different colored volcanic lakes can change  
color and they are considered sacred , it is believed that the souls of the dead 
go here,the souls of the wicked in the black pool,of the young in the green pool 
and the rest in the pool which can change from blue to red ,orange over a period 
of years!.
Later that day all the anchorage were invited for sundowners,nibbles and 
birthday cake aboard Callisto.A day to remember.
We have been travelling along the northern coast of Flores heading west along 
with Kilkea ,it is very pleasant doing day hops of 20-40 nm each day.Both of us 
being Amels we go along at roughly the same speed, sometimes close enough that 
we can pass the "grey poupon"!