Katima Mulilo, Namibia

T he Admiral and I are sitting on the deck of the Protea Hotel at Katima Mulilo watching the hippos on the Zambesi River as the sun goes down. We have had a long but exciting day visiting the Victoria Falls. We were told that doing this trip on your own from Namibia is ill-advised. Having done it today, I would agree.
Our day started at 0600H and we were picked at the hotel by our driver and off we went to the Botswana border. This guy knew all the trick of getting to the front of the considerable lines and we drove rapidly through the Chobe National Park in Botswana.
We saw many elephant and giraffe but did not stop until we got to the border with Zimbabwe. There were crowds of people trying to enter. Our guy managed to get us ahead of the line and we had to pay $55 USD each to get a single entry visa to Zim. Had we been on our own they would have tacked on a fee for insurance, road tax and an environmental fee and temporary import duty on the rental vehicle.
After that there was another check point where a police officer attempted to shakedown our guide, who basically laughed at him and just drove on. I'm not sure how I would have handled the situation had I been on my own. We have heard rumors that these police have been known to go so far as to break a tail light and then fine you for having a dangerous vehicle. Only hearsay, however.
Once inside Zimbabwe, it was a short drive to the falls. We went to helicopter facility and took an amazing 25 minute ride over the falls and the Chobe National forest in a Bell jet ranger.
We walked around the falls for about 90 minutes, also a great experience and photos will follow and then a nice lunch at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
By 1500H it was time to reverse the procedure and go back to Katima Mulilo in Namibia.
So this was an incredible experience but I think that a day trip would have been impossible for us to do by ourselves. The guided trip was expensive, as was the helicopter ride but well worth it.
Zimbabwe is an extremely expensive and corrupt place especially around the falls which seems to be a cash cow for them.
Lots of photos in the pipeline.


We left Capetown on December 20 th. and tried out Uber for the first time to take us to the airport early on a Saturday morning. Overall, this was a great experience a despite a surcharge was much cheaper than a regular cab.
The flight to Windhoek was on a turbo prop and a bit bumpy.
Once in Windhoek, we got a Toyota Corolla rental and went north to Outja and stayed the night there a small hotel and left for the Gondwana Etosha Lodge. We spent the afternoon wandering about, had an excellent dinner and booked a Safari drive the following morning.
The Lodge is situated about 10 Km. south of the park and the guide took us for a four hour drive and we got our first glimpse of the local flora and fauna. We saw lions, kudu, springbok, wildebeast, giraffe, zebras, ostrich and other strange birds.
A relaxing afternoon, followed by another massive dinner and we decided that there wasn't much point in the guided drive so we did our own drive the next morning at sun-up.
Internet is very poor so I'll try to continue tomorrow.
The local kids aren't downloading utube videos just at this second so I'll continue.
Our self drive tour was just as successful as the guided one and we went though the Okaukuejo resort and watering hole and went west toward Sonderkop. We saw all the usual zebras and giraffe, springbok etc. and were lucky enough to come across three lions, one male and two females who had just killed a wildebeast and were chowing down on the kill, not 20 feet from the road. The Admiral got some spectacular photos and we drove on to the watering hole at Ozonjutji way in the west. There, we were rewarded by herds of just about every animal coming by to drink. We also saw out first elephant, a huge lone male wandering about in the bush.
It seems unnecessary to go on the guided drives, if you are lucky you can see the same sights from your air conditioned car and you can go where and when you please. The roads are all unpaved but easily drive-able with a 2 wheel drive vehicle and I've heard it said the best 4 wheel drive is a rented 2 wheel drive.
After 3 days at the Gondwana Etosha Lodge we went back into the park and drove east to Halimi on Christmas Eve. On the road we saw our first Rhino just standing in the road! The accommodations were a bit less fancy but quite adequate and they put a huge Barbecue (Braai) that evening. The Halimi watering hole is very accessible to the resort and is lighted and to watch a herd of 20 plus elephants wander down to drink and bathe at night was quite magical. Lots of rhino and birds there too. We have heard that there are often lots of unruly crowds there but that was not our experience. Almost everyone was quiet and respectful.
We continued east to the next village Namutoni, the site of an old German fort. On the way we saw 2 rhino at another watering hole very close to the road and they stayed next to us for about half an hour before wandering off into the bush.
Namutoni is worth a visit but we did not see much wild life at its watering-hole, mostly zebras and springbok.
Next day, we continued east to Rundu to the Gondwana Hakusembe Lodge, situated on the Cubango    river on the border with Angola. We had a very restful night and an excellent dinner before going a further 500Kms. east to Katima Mulilo through the Caprivi region.
We are staying at the Protea hotel which is a bit of a dump but about the best there is in this fairly desperate town. which brings us back to the report at the top.
Today, we are going back to the Hakusembe lodge and then on the the Waterberg Plateau for New Years Eve and then Sossuvlei
Dozens of photos to follow, I promise when the internet improves. May need to wait until we get back to Capetown and there are already 1500 images and videos to sort through.

RCYC, Capetown, SA

It's been a quiet week at the RCYC since we got back from out walkabout with Jennifer. They went off to do the Garden route trip and we had some peace and quiet by ourselves. My new dinghy and Yamaha 2 stroke was delivered this week and I've been busy attaching the brackets for its wheels and making some wooden chocks so that it will sit on the afterdeck and not scratch up the gel coat. I took it for a spin today to break in the motor and it rides much better than the old one. Lots of power with the 15 HP Yamaha and the admiral is pleased because she can easily start it herself.
The Volvo dudes brought back my heat exchanger and the aftercooler and fitted them and replaced the cam belt and the serpentine belt. We are still waiting for some hoses and all will be completed in early January.
We went to the V and  A waterfront yesterday, to wander about and see a movie. We also went over to the marina and we are told that we have a confirmed berth there on January 10.
Jenn and Ed returned last night from their trip and we had a nice dinner at Panama Jack's.
They left this morning for the Maldives where they will meet the big boat.
The  Admiral and I are off to Namibia for our Safari experience tomorrow at the crack of dawn.
We wish all our readers a very happy holiday season and a healthy and prosperous new year.

Christmas came early with my new Gemini 3.1 m. RIB

and 15 hp Yamaha 2 stroke

More Cape photos

the 12 apostles, Capetown

looking south from the top of table mountain

the iconic view of table mountain on the way to Robben Island

Nelson Mandela's cell on Robben Island

The prison grounds on Robben island

Panorama at Cape Point

Beach huts on the say to Simonstown

Penguin colony False Bay

African penguin 

2 African penguins. Cute little dudes, though they might be girls or even one of each

on the drive down to Cape Point

overlooking False Bay

only another 6000 miles to complete circumnavigation

At the cape of Good Hope

The Cape with some more penguins and seals

chocolate dessert at the Grand Provence vineyard. An excellent lunch at an exquisite location. 5 stars!

Kirstenbosch

on top of Table Mountain

Cape photos

The Groot Constantia Vineyard . The first vineyard in SA from 1768

Hout Bay

Groot Constancia vineyard

Jenn and Ed

Franschhoek

An  Eagle Owl at the botanical gardens in Kirstenbosch

grapes

One of the many sculptures at Grand Provence, Franschhoek

a view across the Franschhoek valley from the Dieudionne Vineyard

the very kitschy wine tram in Franschoek 

RCYC, Capetown, SA

We are back on the boat at the RCYC after a visit from Jennifer and  her friend Ed. They arrived last Sunday and we had a very busy week sightseeing. The yacht club had a live jazz band playing on Sunday and we had a very boozy lunch listening to the music. On Monday, we took the red tourist bus which took us all over Capetown and we took the cable car to the top of the Table Mountain and then lunch overlooking the beach at Blues in Camp Bay.
Next day,we went on the boat to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned until 1992. A well worthwhile tour and strongly recommended.
We wandered around the V and A waterfront area for the afternoon, lots of stores there. On Wednesday we rented a car and we took Jennifer to renew her ENG-1 in downtown Capetown and on to lunch in Kalk Bay at Live Bait and then to Simonstown to see the African penguins. We drove all the way down False bay to Cape Point and took the cable car to the most south westerly point in Africa. Most spectacular views! We drove back through Hout Bay, so it was a long and tiring day but we saw a great deal of the cape.
On Thursday we took the car to Franschhoek and took the rather kitschy " wine tram" to all the various vineyards in the area. I'm not too sure about the tram but there was no other easy way of doing this without a designated driver as we were all a bit tipsy by late afternoon, having visited four vineyards. Franschhoek valley is an experience.
 Dozens of vineyards, mostly small, but some larger commercial ones. Our favorite was Grand Provence. In many ways more beautiful than Napa and Sonoma with incredible scenery and views from the surrounding mountains.
We had a superb lunch the next day at the Grand Provence with some delicious wine and then went on to look at Stellenbosch the other famous wine growing valley. The town was much bigger than Franschhoek with a younger vibe and also surrounded by vineyards, though these seemed much bigger and more commercial than Franschhoek.
Both valleys are only about 90 minutes drive from Capetown and we will definitely go  and spend more time in Franschhoek when we get back from Namibia.
We had some dinner at a fairly divey looking restaurant close to RCYC called Panama Jacks. Very good seafood and sushi and full of locals.
Yesterday, we took a ride to Groot Constantia which is the oldest vineyard in South Africa and we did the the wine tour and tasting and had a very good lunch. We visited the botanical gardens at Kirstenbosch which was excellent but we unfortunately had three hours to spend there before closing time. We will return to spend a day there in January.
The yacht club was busy on our return following a big race sponsored by Mount Gay Rum. And you all know what happens when free rum and sailors are combined. It was a loud and lively evening.
Jenn and Ed left this morning for their tour of Knysna and the Garden Route and we will see them again on Thursday.
We are back to boat chores today and my new dinghy and motor will arrive tomorrow and the Volvo boys will be back with my heat exchanger and aftercooler and will fit them and do the cam belt and some other maintenence.
I still haven't found a new speed log impeller but I hope I will be able to source one this week.
Photos to follow.

Garden Route photos

Ibis colony, Montague

Driving through the Karoo

Garden Route Photos

Plettenberg Beach

sand pipers- plettenberg

A view of Mossel Bay

Cloud creeping over the coastal mountains-Karoo

Driving through The Karoo-looks like the great basin highway in Nevada

Senor Dias' caravel. Maritime Museum, Mossel bay

Hiking in the Knysna forest

Ostriches on a farm. Very dopey creatures

Surprisingly good lunch in Prince Albert, Karoo

Traditional Dutch architecture, Montague

Dutch reformed Church, Montague

A view of Franschoek, from the Franschoek pass. We are at the level of the cloud

RCYC, Capetown, SA

We just got back from our week long walkabout along the Garden Route in South Africa. We rented a car ( nasty Hyundai i20) and drove from Capetown and stopped for lunch at The Old Goal House restaurant in the charming town of Swellendam. Then on to Mossel Bay for the night at a very nice Protea hotel on the hill overlooking the bay. Dinner at the very informal Kaai 4 on the beach. The Admiral had a mussel pot and I had a traditional lamb bar b que. We visited the excellent Dias museum on the following day. Lots of interesting stuff in the maritime museum, including the replica of a caravel that sailed  from Portugal to Mossel bay in the fifteenth century by the intrepid Senor Dias.
Next stop was Knysna and lunch at the East Head Cafe overlooking the lagoon. It was a fairly calm day and entry into the lagoon would have been easy that day. We stayed at another Protea Hotel, very well located for the Waterfront and the Knysna Yacht Club. We had dinner with our friends, John and Tracey at the The Olive Tree, which I would recommend strongly.
We went on to Plettenberg Bay next day and had a nice lunch at Enrico's at Keurboomstrand. Good restaurant offering local oysters and prawn overlooking Plettenberg Bay and the beach.
We drove east for for a further 25 miles and visited Nature's Valley and had a lovely walk on an almost deserted beach that was reminiscent of the 90 mile beach on the north island of New Zealand.
Next day we had a long drive into the Karoo. We saw lots of ostrich farms in Oudshoorn on our way north into spectacular high desert country to the small village of Prince Albert and then a long drive back to Knysna.
We went over to the yacht club that evening for their end of Movember Party. Lots of red wine and oysters for dinner.
In order to counter these excesses we did a long hike in the Knysna forest the next day. It was a perfectly clear day in lovely, rolling countryside.
On our way out to dinner that night we had an unfortunate encounter with South Africa's seamier side. My ATM debit card was cloned by some crafty locals. It was my fault really as I did not take the usual precautions that I should have done. I made a successful withdrawal at an ATM and while we were walking away two people called us back and said that the transaction was incomplete and that I should re-insert the card. I should have just walked away but I did re-insert the card and put in my PIN. The machine promptly ate the card and before I could get back to the hotel and the internet, these two jokers had maxed out the card. How they got the card out of the machine is not obvious to me but this scam it apparently quite common in Africa I am now sadder but wiser.
Fortunately, the bank made up the loss but from now on, I will only do ATM withdrawals in broad daylight inside a reputable bank. Never use free standing ATM machines and if anyone approaches you, however friendly, while you are doing your transaction, tell them to go away in no uncertain terms even if it means being rude. If an ATM eats you card cancel it immediately as your account is likely compromised.
Leaving Knysna, the next day we went north on route 62, stopping in Callisdorp for a very pedestrian lunch but the port and dessert wine vineyards were worth a visit. That we stayed at the Mimosa guest house in Montague which is also quite beautiful with traditional Dutch architecture surrounded by vineyards.
We had a wonderful 4 course dinner that evening at the Mimosa and slept very soundly indeed.
We drove back through the Franschoek Pass (amazing views) and on to Franschoek itself and then the wine country of Stellenbosch. We visited the Beyerskloof Winery for lunch and some tasting of their wares and then back to Capetown.
While we had wheels we took a small detour to the Gemini-Evo factory where they make RIBs. I found one in hypolon which will fit nicely on our afterdeck and will be a much better choice than our old Westmarine dinghy. They put us in touch with a local retailer who gave us a very good price on the new dinghy and a Yamaha 15 hp. 2 stroke and even better agreed to take the old one in trade-in.
I should have the new one on Monday. Yay!
Back the yacht club where it was blowing a gale literally. 35 kts with gusts to over 50!
Such is springtime in Capetown, oh well.
Photos to follow.