Monday, November 28, 2011

Walkabout in New South Wales


Leura Falls, Blue Mountains





































A new friend found sitting on the trail. A sulphur crested cockatoo




















Blue Mountain Sunset


















The cockatoo again. Oz has the most amazing bird life














The three sisters, Echo Point












Three Sisters












The Dunes












Dangars Falls

































Grey kangaroos spotted from Roger and Janice's yard in
Coolongolook, NSW.

Sydney Photos












Banksy exhibit on Cockatoo Island

















Performance art, Cockatoo Island







Sculptures by the sea on Bondi Beach















View of the bridge from where Callisto is moored in Woolwich




Aussies sunning themselves on Manly beach












The Sydney Opera House. Looks like nuns in a rugby scrum

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Thoughts from our second season at sea (April 6 2011- Nov 24 2011)

Before writing my next epistle I was playing on the Internet and came across a blog that truly gave me a new appreciation for how I take each day. It is estimated that I have approximately 10,950 days to live!( actuarial tables used by the US social security system)
Knowing a number ,somehow makes each day and who we spend it with, and how we spend it all the more precious.I do truly appreciate being able to spend my time in discovery and not wasting time procrastinating!
After returning to NZ in April with Callisto painted ,repaired and provisioned we set off from Whangarei on May 2 ( Callisto's home for 6 months). Arriving in Opua a couple of days later ,we spent the next 10 days glued to the weather gribs! With all the other yachties waiting for the weather window to leave and venture north to the islands. This was a tense decision making time,avid discussions formed every 6 hours with old friends gathered here ,all waiting to leave for the next season in the pacific. Our newest crew member Terry ( this being his maiden voyage at sea) joined us to experience the journey. We finally decided to leave on Friday 13 th,NOT a popular day or date for superstitious sailors .
This journey was to be my longest single stretch at sea so far. 6 days and 22 hours before seeing land. I dosed up on my usual scopolamine and was more or less ready for a journey of rough sloppy seas ahead. Our poor novice Terry and Captain Bligh lay tethered and prone out from the cockpit, loosing their meals down the deck and looking extremely ashen during our first 24 hrs. Yea for drugs!
You could liken the experience to riding a mechanical bull inside a washing machine. This was a journey where the waves ,wind and rain were totally unpredictable ,changing at a moments notice. It was a very comforting feeling as we finally entered the harbour at Suva ,Fiji . Terry bravely took it all in his stride,he left us and Josette joined us for the next 7 weeks. We left soon after and began exploring the islands in Fiji.Wonderful warm scents ,tropical rains,noisy insects,delicious spices from the markets,friendly people from these tropical islands purvey throughout our exploration,leaving very fond memories .Delicious curries dominated our diets. Julie joined us in the last 2 weeks making the experiences shared with our girls all the more precious.
Fiji was where i experienced my first day with 40 knots of consistent wind with 50 knot gusts!
Later In July we left Fiji for Vanuatu ,this would be another first for me ,the longest time I have sailed with just the 2 of us,4 days 3 nights. This was another journey with foul weather gear,torrential rain ,sloppy seas,cold winds,no moon, no stars! Where was this calm Pacific they always talk about? Surely that is where the name Pacific is derived from.
We arrived in Anatom in a storm ,this is the most southern island in the Vanuatu chain,it was good to rest safely in a safe anchorage. The highlight of the Vanuatu chain was our next island ,Tanna. This actively volcanic island was truly spectacular. The journey by 4 wd to get to the volcano was a thrilling experience in itself. As the sun set we were drawn towards the crater,climbing up , hearing the thundering sounds as we approached,the ground vibrating the smoke spewing everywhere, ash in our eyes and noses. Flames flying high in the sky randomly was mesmerising.
After the volcano experience we sailed overnight to Port Vila where we spent the next couple of weeks, enjoying the baguettes and other good food,all left over from the French influences. We celebrated Michaels birthday with good friends from Kilkea and Tahina.
Another first for us both this season was waking up to an almighty shaking from the earth ,whilst sleeping on board in the water, an earthquake of 7.3! A very strange sensation .
My next journey was just Michael and I again ,this time to New Caledonia.(NC)
A much more delightful trip,weather much better. An excellent change for me.Arriving in NC alongside Kilkea was a good experience.
NC is the best of both worlds, a wonderful pacific setting,this island chain has the second largest barrier reef in the world, pristine clear waters, and reefs. Perfect islands with soft White fine sand,and yet wonderful markets,infrastructure,cheeses ,baguettes, nespresso ,pain au chocolat.etc etc We should have stayed longer!
This was my last sailing destination this season. I then began my 6 week circumnavigation by air to England/ San Diego and Oz .where did the year go?
Everyone always asks me ,"where is your favorite place so far?" this is a hard question as there are so many different experiences that are memorable and enjoyable,during this last season I would have to say Tanna and New Caledonia stand out as my top 2.
The most friendly people would be in the more remote islands of Fiji.
Best food would be the curries in Fiji and the French food in New Cal.
What was the most scary, again it would have to be out at sea with unpredictable storm winds and gigantic waves at night in zero light conditions( although I have become much braver with more sailing experience).I have also become more assertive aboard Callisto ! I have been able to voice my needs and I have started to help in the decision making(for example something as simple as stating my favorite seat when underway) this has made me much happier. :) Thank you Steve for your advice.
My most unusual invented recipes this season were 2 recipes for green unripe papayas! These fruit are on every island we visit. And often green!
Savory: peel,de seed,chop into cubes use as you would for a potato curry ( an excellent substitute )
Sweet: peel ,slice in half, seed and slice in the shape of half moons ,( like an apple slice) toss in a pan with butter, brown sugar,cinnamon and vanilla,cook ,but take off heat when still firm, place in a jar when cool and fill with rum ,put on the lid and place in fridge for a week or so. Then use in a pie, or a fruit bread,a great substitute for apple!
Wishing you all a very Happy Thanksgiving from Sydney.

Monday, November 21, 2011

Rainy Day in Sydney

Ann arrived last Monday evening and we have been very busy doing the tourist thing in Sydney. We bought a weekly pass on the excellent Sydney transit system and we have been all over the place. Mr Obama was here and caused quite a sensation and if the Ozzie press had anything to do with it he would be a shoe-in for another term. We wandered all over the downtown area lots of stores and all the high end stuff that you would expect in a major city. We visited Cockatoo Island which is only half a mile from where we are moored in Woolwich. There was an excellent modern art exhibition there in very interesting surroundings. We went to the famous Bondi Beach the see the sculptures by the sea which I'm told are quite famous. We spent a day at Manly Beach and watched Sydneysiders surfing and hanging about on the beach. There were some very pale specimens working on their melanomas.
We walked around the Paddington district and the Rocks and went to the Australian Maritime Museum in the Darling Harbor area.
We have bought a rail pass and will start our walkabout of NSW and Victoria on Friday. We plan to visit Roger and Janice in Taree which is in coastal NSW and then on to the Blue Mountains and then to Dubbo in the outback of central NSW.
From there we are off to Melborne to visit my old friend John Leslie for a few days and then go to Canberra.
It raining like mad right now and we are doing boat chores. More news and photos from the walkabout as they occur.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Now in Sydney-Yay!

North Head approach to Sydney Harbor with downtown in the background


Downtown Skyline

Bridge and Opera House

Roger and I left Newcastle Marina at zero dark thirty yesterday morning for the 70 mile run down to Sydney. We waited for a low pressure front to slide through and were forecast 15-20 knots from the South East to East. Didn't happen, as usual and we had light and variable breeze most of the trip and had to motor or motorsail for most of it. The wind picked about 10 minutes before we got on the mooring when it blew 20 knot from the Northeast . This is a well known weather phenomenon and it's called bad luck.
Still we had a very nice day with clear skies and warm temperature once the sun came up. The entrance to Sydney Harbor and the views of the Opera House and the iconic harbor bridge are spectacular. I manged to find a mooring just over 2 miles west of the bridge in the suburb of Woolwich/ Hunter Hill. It's very safe and has good views of down town. This will be Callisto's home for three months while we go walkabout in New South Wales and Victoria and London in January.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Post from Joanne, New Cal -Oz

I looked out the window this evening & saw the moon. Immediately, I thought about Callisto & our sail from New Caledonia to NSW, Australia It has now been nearly a month since our journey but the experience & affect of a week at sea are still with me. I'm relaxed, a little disconnected & feeling good. The boys got in ahead of me with their comments, which echo much of my own sentiment....including the fact that Roger got the better bunk! When you are being thrown around & trusting your lee-cloth, the less room the better in your resting spot. I flew from San Francisco to Sydney & spent a wonderful 4 days enjoying the hospitality of an old friend, Lee Tredinnick, before meeting up with Michael in Noumea. I left early spring weather in Sydney for the perfect weather of New Caledonia ...not too hot, not too cold & not too humid. This was very much a trip about the journey, not the destination. Once Roger arrived and the question was answered about who the 3rd crew member was, it was plain sailing. My preparation of being rested & hydrated to avoid sea-sickness failed miserably. By the time the wind shifted on the first day at sea, I had the worst bout of mal de mare in my history on the sea ...& it did not stop until the wind shifted off the nose. There is something about watching the phosphorescence in the water, while throwing up in the dark, with the southern sky & a moon like tonight that makes it all worth while. My shipmates took good care of me, with fluids & gentle suggestions of what was best to do to feel better. The wind shifted, I recovered & we settled into life aboard Callisto and a week of blue water sailing. The company was great, the sailing was what the weather gave us & I was not ready to stop when we docked into Newcastle 7 days later. The last night of sailing along the NSW coast gave us a beautiful sunset, a full moon and at 4.30am, we were all up with a good cup of tea ready to arrive in Newcastle. If I could have changed something, it would have not to have been on a schedule to leave. My best parts:
The companyThe whalesThe starsBeing able to absorb myself in a 900 page novel, nearly finish & really enjoy the book!I have been fortunate to join Michael & Ann on several adventures on Callisto...& to be there when she was an idea and a brochure on the coffee table. I'm looking forward to what the next one will be.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Back down under

I’m back in Newcastle after a grueling 30 hours of travel. The weather is much warmer now and there was one huge thunder storm yesterday. I was able to find a mooring in Sydney just 3 miles west of the famous bridge in a suburb of Woolich which I’m told is very pleasant with good connections to downtown Sydney. When Ann arrives next week we can start our inland tour of New South Wales.
I’ll probably leave for Sydney tomorrow weather permitting.

Reflections on our San Diego Trip

It was excellent to return home and visit with some of our children and visit the desert and see some old friends there and also to search for and buy bucket loads of boat parts. We also got to do the accountant and doctor thing and I hope all will be well for a year until we are back again.
We spent two days in Rancho Mirage with Len and Kathy Schwartz and visited Eisenhower Medical Center and enjoyed the perfect fall weather and some very good company and generally caught up on all the happenings in town.
We also went to San Francisco for a few days to see our son James and his girlfriend Katie. We had a wonderful day out in Point Reyes complete with a picnic lunch of fresh oysters, local cheeses and a nice Pinot Noir.
We visited the farmers market which was a mob scene and also saw the Occupy San Francisco brigade on the Embarcadero in tents. No violence but it did look pretty dismal.
We did all the touristy things and shopped on Union Square. There was quite a contrast between the big name stores and the tent city. All the shops were busy and I wondered to myself, “what recession”
James and Katie showed us many of the city things that we would not have found by ourselves
We got lucky with the weather in San Francisco too, crystal clear and warm.
Joanne and Tracie Hughes met us for lunch and the time passed very quickly.
San Diego is just as we remember it and I regret that I did not spend more time there on this trip. Next time perhaps.
Photos to follow.