We left Mauritius as planned on September 12 and had an easy overnight run to Reunion. We went into the Port de la Pointe des Galets on the north west aspect of the island and tied up to a large catamaran. The clear in was a bit chaotic as no-one was around on the weekend. The problem with this marina is that there is nothing in its vicinity and the nearest town is a 3-4 km walk. There are, however, lots of boat related facilities and one can get most boat related repairs done in the marina. We were berthed outside the local yacht club and they were having their year end regatta on the Saturday and Sunday. We were invited to the festivities and were made very welcome indeed.
After the weekend, things picked up a bit and we got to do some exploring. Mauritius used to be French and they still speak mostly French but Reunion IS France and many of the small towns look just like little, provincial French towns. The people were incredibly friendly and helpful. We rented a car for two days and on the first day took a coastal ride from the northwest of the island to the south visiting all of the beach towns on the way. There is a small marina in St, Gilles. Very pretty spot but much too small for us. We had a pleasant lunch on the beach and then down to the town of St Denis where they also have a marina. The entrance looked a bit shoal but would have been a nicer place to stay had they had room. Lots of stores and restaurants nearby.
Next day we got up very early to see the central part of the island and the town of Cilaos in a massive volcanic caldera. Getting there was exciting in a small under powered rental car. The road was incredibly steep and winding with terrifying hairpin bends. The views were spectacular and I'll post some photos soon. We had another good lunch and drove through another national park to the east side of the island and then back around the northern tip back to the boat.
The weather was looking good for South Africa and we left on Wednesday, September 17 after a bit of an adventure returning the rental car. We got stuck in traffic and then got lost and had to be rescued by the rental agents. Nonetheless we got away around noon and soon got into breeze once out of the influence of Reunion.
This leg is tricky as the shortest distance to South Africa is about 1400 miles, outside the range of a useful weather window and it is possible to get caught with severe weather conditions approaching the South African coast especially in the Agulhas Current where conditions can be horrendous in a southwesterly gale.
We employed three weather strategies. One was the usual grib weatherfiles downloaded via the sat phone every other day. We also got help from a South African friend of Ray who runs a an exploration boat out of Mossel bay and has a great deal of local knowledge. I also thought it might be useful to use an American weather routing service called Commanders Weather out of Maine. They were indeed very flexible and helpful and gave us 3 very detailed forecasts and routing while underway.
We tried to get all the way to Mossel Bay (170 miles east of Capetown) but this was not possible due to a very strong cold front that we could not avoid without going into Durban.
All in all, we were quite lucky with the weather. We only had to deal with one frontal system which was mercifully mild. We even had to motor for about 20 hours!
We got into Durban on Friday, September 26 and found a very nice berth on the international dock close to the Durban Marina Office and the Point Yacht Club. More to follow.
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Thursday, September 11, 2014
Port Louis, Mauritius
At last, a post from Mauritius. As you may have read we arrived in Port Louis last Sunday afternoon after 13 days and a few hours from the Cocos-Keeling Islands. This was a long run of over 2300 nautical miles and even though it was quite bumpy at times, it was quite rapid.
We had winds of force 6-7 and sometimes gusts to Force 8 for much of the time and some quite lumpy seas.
Port Louis and Mauritius itself has been a very pleasant surprise. The dock area is a bit confusing but we hid find the appropriate place to tie up and do the clear in procedure. Once again, it seems odd to find non-white people speaking French but in a very good way. Every one here is courteous and well turned out and the infrastructure is well maintained.
After clear in, we moved over to the "marina" and tied up on a concrete wall (tidal range is about 15 inches). It's very sheltered in here and we even have water and electric for about $20/ day.
We have spent the last few days cleaning up and wandering about the island.
We leave today for La Reunion and we will stay there for a few days waiting for a weather window for the tricky bit to South Africa.
Here are some photos and I'll post some details in a days or two
| Karakatoa in the Sunda Straits on leaving Indonesia |
| a very sad looking genset impeller This one had lost all of its blades. |
| Direction Island, Cocos-Keeling Islands very windy while we were there |
| angry Indian Ocean |
| One of the frequent line squalls encountered in the Indian Ocean. Sometimes wind, sometimes rain, sometimes both |
| After the squall comes the rainbow |
| port louis, mauritius |
| Black River Gorge |
| view to the south Mauritius |
| port louis |
| Callisto in Port Louis marina |
| local dudes doing their morning exercise |
| Mauritius |
Saturday, September 6, 2014
Enroute to Mauritius
Callisto and crew left Cocos keeling 15 days ago and should arrive in Mauritius any day now.
Good sailing for the first 12 days averaging 180 mile days, then the wind died for 24 hours ,so they were motoring and wishing for wind,but as they say 'be careful what you wish for,as the 'winds came back ranging from 25 -33 knots with a swell of 4-5 m with squalls,so a rather bumpy ride. Believe it or not all the crew were in foulies, trying to keep warm and dry!So they put up the cockpit weather cover,so they are back in shorts and feeling more toasty. They caught a 10 LB wahoo after a week out this was the first fish on this leg,reported as delicious. A 50 LB fish was hauled aboard a few days later ,but it got the better of the crew and flipped back into the ocean!
Good sailing for the first 12 days averaging 180 mile days, then the wind died for 24 hours ,so they were motoring and wishing for wind,but as they say 'be careful what you wish for,as the 'winds came back ranging from 25 -33 knots with a swell of 4-5 m with squalls,so a rather bumpy ride. Believe it or not all the crew were in foulies, trying to keep warm and dry!So they put up the cockpit weather cover,so they are back in shorts and feeling more toasty. They caught a 10 LB wahoo after a week out this was the first fish on this leg,reported as delicious. A 50 LB fish was hauled aboard a few days later ,but it got the better of the crew and flipped back into the ocean!
The photo on the previous blog is of Captain Mike,Ray and Ted just in Singapore before they set of on this voyage.
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