Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Yachthaven Marina, Phuket, Thailand

Insread of going into Ao Chalong bay we decided to come straight to Yachthaven Marina from Phi Phi Don and this was a good choice as Monday was a Thai public holiday and clearing in would have been difficult. We got  a good berth in the marina and met up with many old pals from our South Pacific travels. We rented a big truck with two other couples and went into Phuket town to do our clear in and a few other chores.
Lots of traffic and tourism but you can get all sorts of boat services done. Not necessarily cheap but at a fair price.
We took our staysail in to a sail loft called Rolly Tasker which is a local institution. It was 9000 square metres in size with dozens of Thai girls cutting and sewing like there was not tomorrow. They will put a new UV strip on the staysail at a much more reasonable price than what I was charged for a UV strip on the genoa by the bandits in Bundaberg.
I found a stainless welder to do few little jobs and got an estimate for a new bimini and a full sunbrella awning to keep the tropical sun off our decks and cabin tops.
The Volvo dudes are coming tomorrow and we have had a carpenter fabricating a new cockpit table and fixing some rot around one of our fridges. Always more expensive and involved than you think initially but these things will have to be done.
Rolly Tasker's sail loft. The place looked like an airplane hangar
Fishing nets. These are a significant hazard. They are everywhere

Also trawlers with lots of net



Typical Thai longtail dropping his fish traps

Amazing Thai island formations

Approaching Phi Phi Le
The Kilkea's and Solar Planet are here and we look forward to sailing the Andaman Sea next week once we get all our boat chores done.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Phi Phi Don, Thailand

This evening finds us in a delightful, calm anchorage in the north west of the island of Phi Phi Don. Though it was not so for most of the day. We arrived at about noon and anchored up off a pretty beach. There was a great deal of boat traffic bringing tourists from the resorts to swim and snorkel here but by 1600H most of them were gone and we had the place mostly to ourselves.
I went for a swim on the reef and there were lots of small fish but the coral was mostly dead and the water quite murky.
We have had a good cruise up the coast stopping in Koh Muk outside the famous caves and saw a huge motoryacht (about 160feet) also called Callisto. Next day we anchored at Koh Lanta and went ashore to get some local currency and a SIM card for the phone. We had a nice lunch in one of the numerous eateries.
We had intended to go to the island of Phi Phi Le today but we took a look into the lagoon and it was a mad house of tour boats all making huge wakes so we made our way here instead.
Tomorrow we should arrive in Phuket, in Ao Chalong bay to clear into Thailand. From there, we go to YachtHaven Marina to get some work done and visit with our pals from Kilkea II

Ko Taratuo, Thailand


0630H Thursday, February 21st, 2013
We left Langkawi yesterday morning after settling up our marina and yard bills on a calm, clear day. We sailed and motor sailed up into Thailand and took a mooring ball on the island of Tarutao for the night. We got the dinghy in the water for the first time in many months and attached the 10hp. outboard. It started up after a few pulls and we took a ride up a river estuary as far as the tide would allow. It feels good to be out of the confines of the marina and cruising between small islands again.
We plan to make a series of day hops to Phuket where we want to get some more work done on Callisto. The Volvo is still not running right and we need a new bimini and some minor sail work. We are told that there are sufficiently skilled individuals in Thailand and we hope that this is so.
Next stop is Koh Talibon about 35 miles to the northwest.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Off to Thailand tomorrow

We have been busy again getting ready to leave for Thailand tomorrow  Callisto got splashed on Sunday without problem and everything seems to be working well. We went into Kuah on Langkawi to clear out of Malaysia and do a bit of shopping. Lots of stores for almost everything in town.
We went over to Langlawi from Rebak on the ferry and rented a car from a Mr. Dinn for $12.50. It was a bit of a spavined old beater but at least the A/C worked. Brakes were another story. No docs, no license, no insurance just hand over the money and Mr. Dinn gives you the keys until four o'clock.
We were fortunate to have been shown around by an Australian couple from the yacht Sassoon so we followed them to almost all the places we need to go.
Langkawi is duty free so alcohol is pretty cheap. $10 for a case of beer and about $15 for a litre of gin or rum. A bottle of wine was a bit more $12-$15 and up. We even found the Admiral a bottle of Pastis for 6 bucks!
Cleat out was easy and then the slog of transporting all of our stuff back on the ferry to our boat.
We had drinks with our old friends, John and Cheryl on Sea Mist yesterday. They are in the berth next to us.
Callisto in the travelift. The mizzen backstays had to come off


in she goes
We spent the day cleaning up checking the dinghy and getting ready for leaving in the morning

Saturday, February 16, 2013

On the hard, Rebak Marina, Langkawi

It's now been 6 days on the hard at Rebak. We thought that we might get done quicker but anything to do with boats is always more complicated than first thought. All the old bottom paint had to be sanded off and the nicks and dings filled and sanded flat again. We had 8 gallons of paint applied and that should last for at least 2 years at least until we get to South Africa. All the other maintenance work went well, everything just took longer.
Callisto getting her bum painted

The Valentines enjoying a big night out

A picture tells a thousand words

The pool at the Rebak resort, very nice after a hot day of boat  chores
We should get splashed tomorrow and this is a good thing as we have no fridges until that happens. Fortunately, we were able to rent a domestic air conditioner which has made the time here bearable. The yard is pretty good and is paved and clean. We are able to use all the resort facilities including the restaurants , bars and the pool and this is just as well as the Admiral is getting a bit stir crazy. This, I hope, will be remedied soon as once we go back into the water we will rent a car on Monday and drive around Langkawi and see the sights. This a duty free area and the booze stocks are a little depleted. Some replenishment is on the way.
After that we should be able to clear out of Malaysia and head north to Phuket a journey of about 120 miles and we will take a week to visit all the small islands on the way. We look forward to some clear water for swimming.
We had a delightful Valentine's Day dinner at the resort restaurant. They made a great effort with poolside tables, live entertainment moving from table to table, a six course dinner and lots of local Champagne to wash it all down. A good time was had by all and we were both a bit worse for wear by 11 pm.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Gong Hei Fard Choy, 恭喜发财


Happy New Year.
This message has dominated our last
 4 weeks of traveling through Hong Kong, Singapore and sailing up the Malaysia coast especially in Penang.
Red lanterns decorating ,mandarin oranges being handed out in the streets with dancing dragons and music ,also numerous food preparations everywhere in anticipation of  celebrating the year of the snake (2013 from feb 9th for up to 15 days)!
We have been extremely busy using the metro systems and public buses in all the above cities ,so that we could take in as many of the sights as possible. All the transport systems have been extremely efficient ,easy to use ,with friendly helpers when we seem a little lost. They are also very inexpensive ,the captain has enjoyed his senior status,so his bus fares for example were about 30 cents per journey in Penang!
We have enjoyed the food especially eating with the locals in the hawkers markets,(so many vegetarian options also )just as Anthony Bourdain would do. Indian still being our favorite .
Penang was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site validating its outstanding cultural heritage. We spent an entire day on a religious trail, from Protestant, Catholic,Hindu ,Buddhist ( various different kinds), And Muslim  temples.Too many photos to display!
Returning from our visit in Sun Valley and England where it was dark and very cold the heat has taken a while to get used to, 90-95  F, with high humidity plus 12 hours of daylight which was a nice surprise .We were lucky enough to get our visas for Thailand whilst in Penang,just before they closed for some New Year holidays.
We had 9 sailing days and 8 nights at anchor from Puteri Harbour to Rebak, Langawi . I was able to sail without medication due to flat seas which was a lovely change from other journeys. 
We have a data chip in our mobile modem ,so we are able to pick up our Internet whenever we spot a red and white cell tower off the coast!
So far the malaysian waters have been very murky,with a lot of rubbish floating by, especially styrofoam packaging and water bottles always with lids on ,it seems strange to me that someone has taken the time to screw the lids back on the bottles ,but can't take the time to dispose of them properly!
The water is supposed to become clear and clean once we get to Thailand :)
We have only sailed in the day due to the fact that we have to dodge all the very small unmarked ,not lit fishing boats with their precarious floats ,that resemble the trash floating ,large fishing boats dragging their  long nets behind them plus tugs towing barges and enormous container ships.
We will spend some time here in Langawi having Callisto painted and routine maintenance taken care of.



Saturday, February 9, 2013

Rebak Marina, Langkawi, Malaysia

We are tied up to the dock at Rebak Marina on the western side of Langkawi after spending the night at a delightful anchorage at one of the southern islands. The sail up to Langkawi was a little slow initially as we had to wait until 1100H for the tide to flood enough to get out of Straits Quay Marina. We had winds on the nose and a foul current initially and we barely made 5 knots until the tide changed and the wind shifted to the southwest as it always seems to do in the afternoon. After that we motor sailed at 8.5 kts to get to Teluk Chawi by sunset where we anchored for the night.
We had a brisk Northwesterly breeze this morning and made it to Rebak under sail in rapid time. I met with Noel who will under take Callisto's bottom paint and some other stuff that needs doing and the haul-out is scheduled for tomorrow at 1000H.
John and Cheryl from Sea Mist are here and we will see them tonight after a gap of many months for drinkies.
Here are some photos of the spectacular Kek Lo Si Buddhist Temple in Penang
Kek Lo Si which means Temple of Supreme Bliss

This Pagoda housed a 30 metre bronze Buddha completed in 2002

Decorations for the Chinese New Year (Year of the Snake)

The seven storey Pagoda of Ten Thousand  Buddhas, completed in 1930

Three Golden Buddhas

Entrance to the Temple Construction began in 1890

Colonial Town Hall building in Georgetown, Penang

Entertainment on Friday night at the Straits Quay Marina


Leaving Teluk Chawi, Langkawi this morning
.

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Straits Quay Marina, Penang Malaysia

A tough day in Georgetown, Penang

Lunch in Little India, Georgetown

under the Penang bridge. It is 28 metres high so no cause for concern  but always looks scary as you approach

approaching the new Penang bridge still under construction

coming up to the bridge always looks like we are going to hit
A brand new Amel 64 next to us in Port Dixon. The owner was a Frenchman   living in Malaysia. He gave us the  grand tour. Serious boat envy!

Straits Quay Marina, Penang, Malaysia

Well here we are at the Straits Quay Marina after all. We were on our way to Lankawi when we made a final phone call to John at the Straits Quay  Marina and he told us that there was a berth for us for three days. Sounded good to us and in we went. Who says that persistence combined with whining and begging don't pay off because occasionally they do.
This is a really great marina and an equally excellent location. We got the salon A/C fixed with help of Mr. Kong who came by and replaced a faulty condenser for not much money. All is now cool on Callisto.
We ran around downtown Penang all day today doing the bones and stones tour. Lots of temples of the Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim and Christian variety and lots of museums and eateries as well. We think that Penang has so far been the high spot in Malaysia.
We did some shopping for expat dry goods today and tomorrow will visit some more Buddhist temples. Penang is truly a multi cultural place,too bad we will miss the Chinese New Year celebrations as they promise to be excellent but we have to move on on Saturday.
We are currently enjoying drinks at the Healy Mac's Irish bar where on Thusday nights cocktails are free for ladies. The Admiral is taking advantage.
Photos to follow.

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Penang, Malaysia


We are now anchored up just north of Rimau Island between it and Penang. We had a pretty easy run up the coast mostly motor sailing in calm, murky water with overcast skies. The great sailing  and clear weather south of Port Dixon must have been a fluke. We also had  huge thunder showers the past two evenings once we were anchored. Very interesting experience with 20 kt. winds, no visibility and buckets of rain. The light show was pretty impressive too.
Unfortunately, we could not get into the Straits Quay Marina in Penang as they were completely full. Too bad, really, as everyone recommended it very highly. We shall just have to go back later in the month after our haul-out.
It should be a quiet night here and we plan to be up at dawn and leave for Langkawi tomorrow. We may make it by nightfall but if not we will anchor for the night in southern Langkawi and get to Rebak Marina on the following day. Full report when we get there.