Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Quepos, Costa Rica

We got to Quepos a few days ago after a pleasant 30 mile sail down from Heradura. The batteries were ordered from the US and should meet us in Golfito.
Quepos is a quiet little town close to its major attraction, the Manuel Antonio National Park, which is a separate tourist area. The marina at Quepos is not yet finished but when it is, will be spectacular and probably better than Los Suenos. We spend a few days provisioning as I'm not sure what will be available in Golfito when we get there.We went to the park and it was really excellent. Lots of critturs. The beach in the park was also perfect. Manuel Antonio Beach


an Arouti. looks like a cross between a rabbit and a rat

Bamboo
Howler monkey howling

White faced Capuchin monkey


Cruise ship Windstar in Quepos, Callisto next door
Joanne arrived on Sunday night and we went over to Manuel Antonio Bay yesterday to anchor up for the day and do some swimming and snorkeling.
A bit of a disaster happened late in the afternoon. We had a lightening strike very close to the boat and my engine won't start and some of my nav instruments are out. I can't find any visible damage so I think this was a near miss and the EM pulse is what caused the damage.
We got a tow back to Quepos from the Costa Rican Coast Guard and I spent the day trying to track down Volvo technicians and also an electronics dude. This will require many boat units but I'm stuck otherwise. Literally dead in the water.

Will post some photos soon and report on the progress of repairs

Monday, February 15, 2010

Bahia Herradura, Costa Rica

We are back in Bahia Herradura after spending the weekend with our old pals in Tambor. The yacht club there is still not finished and the place is as quiet and secluded as ever. We went to
Spencer and Mark (Not Marks and Spencer)from the Howler Cafe
the Howler Cafe again for dinner and a good time was had by all.
We also made a road trip on the chicken bus to Montezuma, which a small beach town again full of hippies of indeterminate age and decrepitude. We also noted another class of individual, locally known as Trustafarians, namely white kids with dreds and funny hats who also happen to have a trust fund.
The beach and surf were excellent and also some small, boutique type resort hotels looked
Montezuma beach
Montezuma Main Drag
pretty good.
We went back to Herradura to the Marine Store at Los Suenos as my house battery bank has completely failed. The batteries won't hold charge and maintain voltage for more than 12 hours and they will need to be replaced. It's very difficult to get anything but auto batteries here and they will have to come from Florida at a ridiculous price but I don't think I have a choice other than replacing them prior to crossing the Pacific.
Oh well. The joys of boat ownership.
Off to Quepos tomorrow to see the Manuel Antonio National Park

Friday, February 12, 2010

Bahia Ballena, Golfo Nicoya, Costa Rica

We spent just over a week at Los Suenos, Bahia Herradura and rather than proceed directly to Quepos we decided to go back to Bahia Ballena, 20NM across the Gulf of Nicoya and spend a few more days in unspoiled, peacefulness before re-entering civilization.
We had one unpleasant, very rolly night in Herradura when the swell came from the southwest and Ballena is much more protected.
We will probably do some more horse-back riding trips from here.
While in Herradura we made a road trip to Jaco, which is about 3 miles from Los Suenos. It's a fairly seedy surfing beach town, lots of Americans and Europeans of all ages and types, replete with all manner of piercings and tatoos. Place looked a little bit like South Florida rather than Costa Rica. The surf looked really good though.
Surf at Jaco Beach
Some more photos of Los Suenos
Los Suenos Marina
Marriott Hotel at Los Suenos
Rows of gigantic sportfishing machines
Bahia Herradura

Monday, February 8, 2010

Bahia Herradura, Golfo Nicoya, Costa Rica

Not so much to report, today. We did a road trip to the Tarcoles River and the Carara National Park. This a transition area between the dry forest we have seen before and the wetter rain forest that we have not. Various creatures were spotted including the apparently rare scarlet macaw, numerous large crocodiles, other reptiles and birds and of course different kinds of
flora. A very interesting but tiring day ( we walked for miles)
scarlet macaw. he really is in there somewhere
Tarcoles river crocodiles
jesus lizard. this dude really can walk on water

For those of you who didn't know, there was some sort of football game on last night. We watched it in "The Hook-Up" which is a fishing bar at the the resort. (not the other kind of hook-up but maybe some of that as well). The locals were in quite a festive mood, perhaps enhanced by a funny looking man and two ladies with a great deal of cleavage who were dispensing free Mojitos. They weren't very good ( the Mojitos) but they were free, so I guess one shouldn't complain. The game itself was surprisinly entertaing and I am now a Saints fan and I have the Mardi Gras beads to prove it.
We had a huge rain storm at about 0200H and there was a mad scrambling about to get all the hatches closed. Callisto got a good freshwater washdown. So much for the dry season, I guess they really mean a dryer season than the summer.
You will be pleased to know that Costa Rica elected its first female president yesterday. She is the center-right candidate and takes office in April.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Bahia Herradura, Golfo Nicoya, Costa Rica

We are now anchored up in Bahia Herradura on the southeastern end of Golfo Nicoya in the company of numerous megayachts the most impressive of which is Perseus, a 169 foot Perini Navi ketch. She makes Callisto look like a toy boat alongside.

Perseus at sunset
This is the location of the Los Suenos Marriott Resort and Marina. Unfortunately, the marina is full of gigantic sportfishing boats but the bay is calm with good holding and we shall make some day trips to Arenal volcano and the rain forests from here.
Ron left on February 1st. and went back to California and we will miss him and all of his excellent help. He'll be back in March to get ready for the Galapagos -Tahiti leg beginning mid March.
We spent the past few days exploring the Golfo Nicoya. We went to the Isla Tortugas which were spectacular. pristine white beaches and crystal clear water.
Isla Tortugas.
Lots of tourists during the day but after 1600H, we had the entire place to ourselves. We went further north to Naranjo Beach but the resort there was almost deserted and quite windy. Decided to give Puntarenas a miss as the back lagoon is quite shoal and probably very hot and buggy, so we will do our exploring from here.
We have had some excellent sailing in the strong breeze and flat waters of the gulf.
The Costa Rica general elections are this weekend and I hope that doesn't disrupt the program.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Bahia Ballena, Golfo Nicoya, Costa Rica

We are now anchored up in the pleasant and picturesque Bahia Ballena. We spent a week lounging around in Bahia Culebra, on the beach and numerous bars and eateries in the village of Playa del Coco. Cousin Benny returned after a few days of wandering around Costa Rica and we all had dinner at a seafood restuarant in Coco and afterwood went to a tenth anniversary of one of the local bars that featured an excellent live band. A very late night at 0100H for yours truly but I did manage to stay awake.
We also did a tour of the Rincon de Vieja National Forest and Volcano area. We did all the touristy things like horse back riding,
The Admiral "flying like an eagle"
zip lining and volcanic mud baths that were a lot of fun, all in outstanding surroundings. Lots of flora and fauna too. Monkeys, iguanas, birds and the like.
A missed career as an Al Jolson impersonator
Howler Monkeys making a huge racket
Black and white iguana
We left Playa del Coco on Tuesday and stayed the night in Bahia Potrero about 20 miles south. On Wednesday, with a 15-20kts forecast we left for the run south. Within three hours the wind was up to a steady 35kts with gusts to 48 kts. from the north-east. Fortunately, we were only 2-3 miles of the beach and there was no significant sea running but we did have an interesting ride for a few hours until things settled down. Needless to say, the Admiral was not happy.
We arrived at Bahia Carrillo at about 1700H and settled in for dinner and an early night. The anchorage was very rolly and no-one slept very well.
On Wednesday morning, we had an excellent and fast sail to Cabo Blanco and into the Gulf of Nicoya and on to our current location in Bahia Ballena, which is nice and calm with no swell at all. Haven't seen any whales in here yet, though.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Playa del Coco, Bahia Culebra, Costa Rica

We finally got out of Huatulco as noted below. The run down to Costa Rica was quite difficult with the end of a Tehuantapec gale and then 48hrs of no wind at all. We saw lots of sea life while it was calm, whales, sea turtles, dolphin but caught no fish. The final 24 hours were quite enventful with 30 kt wind gusting to 36 kts. it was a little bouncy. Callisto did great as usual and looked after us well. Despite green water over the decks for much of the time we stayed warm and dry and safe.
We got to Costa Rica on Jan 18 and had to do the immigration cha cha again and finally met up with the Admiral and brother and sister at the Hilton in Golfo Papagallo.



A pleasant evening was had by all and unfortunately, they had to leave the following morning. They brought the ice machine and I set it up today. It works quite well and will bring a new dimension to cocktail hour on Callisto
The trip down was worth it as this little bay is absolutely delightful. Gentle breezes, easy anchoring and no swell. We will probably spend a week here and then go south.
We fueled up in Marina Papagallo and saw my old boat sitting here, which was quite a surprise. New owner was not about though.
The former Callisto